Are New Condos Really Worth the Money?

In a column in March 2006 I noted that property speculators are pushing up the prices of new condominium units, which one might consider are already high compared to older ones in Bangkok.

Today let’s take a look at an example of this phenomenon. There was a new condominium launched recently on a plot of land adjacent to another older building. The latter is a little over 10 years old, but when it was first constructed it was regarded as one of the few genuine grade A condominiums in Bangkok. It has a lovely podium level, with a tranquil pool area, tennis court, every other facility you would expect, and each unit measures at least 300 square metres. Why am I telling you this? It’s because the sales prices in this condominium are little over one-half of the sales prices in its new neighbor-to- be.

For convenience, let’s say that the older condominium is selling for 55,000 baht per square meter and the new one is selling for 100,000 baht per sq. m. Is the difference in price really justified?

We can easily rule out the land price, as the two condominiums are right next to each other. So what is the difference?

Construction methods? Doubtful. In fact, many older condominium units are arguably more solid than the newer counterparts. Many developers producing lower-grade new condominiums are using materials, such as plastic imitation parquet flooring, which are unlikely to last more than a year or two. Also, lower-grade materials can allow sounds from neighboring units to pass through.

Facilities? Not in the case above. The older condominium has a full range of facilities already.

Calibre of the co-owners? In this case the new condominium has a number of smaller units, geared to perhaps a more middle- class market than the older building which comprises large units only.

The appearance of the building? This must be it. The new condominium will have a nice, shiny new lobby, a clean and newly painted exterior, freshly laid flooring in the common areas, and new furniture. The old condominium is waiting for a repaint, and a new lobby would be nice too.

Then why don’t the owners of the older condominium make these improvements? Probably because when it comes to buying a condominium, people are ready with their chequebooks, but for ongoing maintenance, this is not the case. Or maybe the condominium committee members aren’t as good at selling-in this case the idea of a necessary cosmetic upgrade to add value – as those working for the developer.

Does this mean that in five or 10 years’ time the new condominium will look like the old condominium? Is buying a condominium like buying a car; the price depreciates over time?

Well, if you gave the older condominium mentioned above a repaint, gave it a new lobby with new furniture and resurfaced the podium level, and renovated the small amount of common space in front of the units, and then the difference between the two would not be that great. I don’t see many prospective buyers drilling into the concrete structure to check the integrity of the concrete.

Bear in mind that if you buy a unit in an older condominium, there’s a good chance that inside there could be a lot of old wooden fitted furniture that’s 10 years out of fashion. You may want to rip the whole lot out and start from scratch. If you carried out a thorough renovation of the unit-new floors, new furniture, new electrical and sanitary fitting, then you would probably be looking at spending in the region of 10,000 baht per square metre.

So perhaps it all depends on how much you are willing to spend on a shiny lobby. I myself generally spend about one minute per day walking through the lobby. Most of my time I spend inside the unit. How about you?

Give Your Home Curb Appeal and Watch it Attract Many More Buyers

Curb appeal is all about bringing out the beauty of the front part of your home. Curb appeal is that subtle quality that makes your home welcoming, inviting, warm, fresh, appealing and interesting. It is what makes a potential buyer want to see more of the house as he/she looks at it for the first time. There are countless stories from real estate agents of buyers refusing to get out of the car to view a house simply because the outside was not well kept. If you have already given the inside of your home a makeover, it is time to deal with the outside so that it does not drive potential buyers away.

It is true that money is not easy to come by, but do not hold back on giving the outside of your home a beauty treatment. You do not have to put yourself in a financial bind to give your home curb appeal, but do not neglect it or buyers will go on to the next house on their list.

The first thing you should do is walk outside and view your house objectively. Try to find the above-mentioned qualities…welcoming, inviting, warm, fresh, appealing, etc. If you cannot see them, then it is likely that no one else will either. Try to remember what attracted you to your home when you drove up and looked at it for the first time.

Perhaps you saw an attractive front door with a well-painted door frame. If the paint on your front door and door frame has faded and/or cracked, then it is time to sand it down and repaint it. If your door is natural wood, then clean and varnish it again. You will be surprised how your wooden door will glow with a good cleaning, treatment and varnish.

Artists use focal points in their artwork to draw the viewer’s eye. No matter how modest your house is, you can find a focal point or something of interest to draw attention. There are details such as shutters, brackets, moldings, eaves, windows and window frames which can be used to draw potential buyer’s eye. You should use contrasting, not too bold, colors that show attention to detail.

People walking up to your home will look at your lawn, and they will notice any worn, brown or missing patches. Make sure you take care of those and also make sure that you mow the lawn. While you are at it, fill your planters with bright flowers if you have them. If not, you may want to go to your local flea market and find some planters to fill. And while you are at the flea market, pick up some hanging pots and plant flowers in them.

You do not want your house looking like the rest of the houses in the neighborhood and strategically placed flowers will make sure that it does not. The idea is to make your house say look at me, without going over the top with colors that will detract rather than add to its beauty. Look at the other houses in your neighborhood and then make yours different and more attractive. That is curb appeal, and it will make your home look much better and it will hopefully sell much faster.

Everything You Need To Know About Wooden Garages

Wooden structures popularity is growing rapidly. Each day more people are opting for wooden structures perhaps in realization of the numerous benefits this material possesses. If you happen to own a car you are going to need a palace where you can park your car safely. Whether you want your garage to be an integral part of the primary building or simply a standalone construction, the best option would be wooden garages.

There are various factors that you have to consider before purchasing a wooden garage. The most basic being, the amount of space needed. Depending on how big your family is, you may need to have enough room that can accommodate 2-3 cars or even more. It is crucial to ensure that the wooden garage you purchase will suit your needs fully with no regrets. The major advantage the wood has over other building materials is the fact that it is renewable and there are a variety of this material to choose from. Ensure that only quality wood is used to build your wooden garage. Don’t settle for anything short of a garage made from the best wood the market has to offer. With high-quality wood, this means that you will incur less maintenance cost and the structure will be durable. You should also consider the cost. Get a wooden garage that is well within your means.

Surprising facts about wooden garages

Multi-purpose

The prime purpose of wooden garages is providing a safe place to park your car. Well, that’s not all. Wooden garages are multi-purpose and can serve other purposes other than accommodating your car. Some people use garages as a store where they keep gardening tools and other household equipment whose services are not needed regularly. There are also those who use garages as workshops. Last but not the least, some people turn their wooden garages as man caves. If the garage is big enough, why not use it as a man cave for one of those awkward nights?

Suitable for all seasons

Naturally, wooden structures are very attractive to the eye. Irrespective of what season it is, wooden garages always look attractive to the eye. Wood being a bad conductor of heat ensures that the inside temperature remains warm during winter despite the fact that it is freezing outside. A wooden garage is perfectly equipped to suit you in all seasons.

Maintenance of wooden garages

Wood is durable but there are a few things that you need to know about maintenance of a wooden garage. Wood can rot, get infected with pests and break. To ensure that your garage is always in good shape you will have to maintain it. How do you go about it?

Regular inspection- once every 6 months you should see to it that you inspect your garage. Check and see if there is any cracks or broken parts of the wood, check for rotting or any parts that are infected with pests. The best wood to use is slowly grown conifer. It is durable and doesn’t rot easily. In the inspection, also check the frames and the ceiling. If the frames started to rot and you don’t do anything about it the structure can collapse.

Replacing what is damaged. The inspection is to ensure that you identify the various problems. Everything that you found with a damaged has to be replaced. There are also those who repaint their wooden garage at least once every two years. If you can’t do it yourself seek professionals help.

Safety measures

Safety always comes first and with wooden garages, it is no exemption. Unlike other building materials wood is combustible and this means that you have to take safety precautionary measures to protect your garage in case of an accidental fire. If statistics are anything to go by then over 65% of household fires either start from the kitchen or the garage. Most of the times the fire is accidental but how well equipped you are to deal with the fire will determine the amount of damage the fire will do. Some of the recommended fire safety precautions include:

Sprinkler and fire alarms

Install fire alarms that are connected to a water sprinkler system. With a fire alarm system put in place, this means that you will be in a position to detect the fire when it is still manageable. The sprinkler system can put off the fire but even if this doesn’t work, the fact that you will detect the fire in the early stages this means that you will have enough time to react to the fire.

Install a fire extinguisher

Sometimes it might take the firefighters and 30 to 50 minutes to arrive at the scene. You can’t afford to wait that long without doing something. As a precaution ensure that you install a fire extinguisher in the garage. Also, take an initiative and learn how it works.

Deceptive Car Dealer Ads and Activities – Pervasive As Ever

You hear them on the radio and TV everyday. Some have outrageous ads and sales gimmicks. “Push, pull or drag your trade in for $4000 minimum trade”, “Best price in the world!” “Best bumper to bumper warranty ever – we cover everything.” “Repo’d car sale today.” Bet you didn’t know that these ads can be and usually are very misleading and can be illegal.

According to Leslie Anderson, AAA, Misleading advertisements and deceptive marketing from car dealers has been on the rise in recent years. Car dealers, due to a struggling economy are resorting to grey market sales tactics and ads. Many of these ads are either borderline or even illegal in nature. With all the publicity in recent years of scams and illegal business activities by businesses from every state you would think most states would have toughened up their laws and started to crack down on bad car dealers. Only one state, New York, has really done anything.

There are laws already on the books that make many of these advertisements and such illegal, but few states will even look into these activities. In New York, if you run a Push, Pull or Drag sale the odds are you will get fined. The thinking behind New Yorks laws is that if you promise someone a set figure for their vehicle it should not be factored into the discount or markup of the newer, replacement vehicle. This is deceptive advertising. Yet I hear these same ads, with even higher amounts promised on the radio and TV in North Carolina and South Carolina all the time. Then there’s the matter of expressed and implied warranties.

Expressed and implied warranties are actually covered under federal laws. Every car dealer must have a federally approved warranty disclosure placed in the window. This is to show if a warranty exists and what is actually covered. This was done as there was too much discrepency in the past with car salesman blurring the line of what is really covered and what isn’t. On a recent drive from North Carolina to South Carolina I saw 11 used car dealerships that did not have these in the windows – at one we found they were in the glove compartment. When we asked the salesperson why it wasn’t in the window he said it wasn’t necessary. In New York, every car dealer you drive by or visit will have these prominently displayed.

Then you have the usual lies – car dealers advertising a repossession sale, cream puffs, etc… They will lie about the origination of cars just like in a recent Carfax ad. Oh that was just a little fender scratch (complete repaint from a 50mph accident) or new upholstery (due to a flood and complete submersion). These repossession sales, like Repo Joe, do a media Blitz and claim they have all repossessed vehicles for a great buy. When in fact they probably don’t even have one repossessed car that is for sale. Most car dealers get their cars from either trades or local auctions.

Regardless of what they claim they most likely do not know the vehicles history. You can’t even rely on Carfax 100% as many vehicles are repaired without full salvage disclosure or even any repair history. A carfax report is only as good as the information that is actually entered into the system. Before you rely on that Carfax or what the dealer says is the cars history listen to this – Tennessee attorneys Frank Watson and David McLaughlin charge that Carfax’s ads promise more than it can deliver. “Carfax fails to disclose the limitations of their database,” says Watson. “People think they have a little insurance policy on their Carfax report, and it’s just not accurate,” says McLaughlin. Carfax is an online company that searches databases for a vehicle’s history, claiming to be “your best protection against buying a used car with costly, hidden problems.” But, critics say when it comes to many accidents, online reporting companies fall short. A class-action lawsuit against Carfax claims the company doesn’t have access to police accident data in 23 states.

This article should be a wake up call to car buyers to be more on the alert to car dealer scams, lies and untruths. It should also be an alert to states from Oregon to Florida that more needs to be done to curb bad car sales tactics. Most car dealers aren’t small mom and pop organizations. They are large million or billion dollar companies that will do anything to make a dollar. Even crossing the line or blurring what is legal and what isn’t. And according to one big dealer in Charlotte, North Carolina whom didn’t want his name or dealership mentioned for obvious reasons – “its all about that bottem line and if we get caught, thats what our lawyers are for. Per another car dealer, “it’s a buyer beware market: Buyers must beware and be detectives too.”

How To Paint A Wooden Boat

One of the great increasing mysteries of today’s modern boatbuilding is the amount of hi-tech gobble-de-gook that the average home boat builder is expected to wade through when the time comes to paint the boat after the horrendous amount of sanding, fairing and hard work is (mostly) over and the fruits of your labour now require a shiny deep lustre that the painting now promises to bring. This part, to my mind at least, is one of the best parts of boatbuilding, the finish! (Well, at least the start of the finish!)

Painting a boat used to be a reasonably simple task. All one needed was a fine dry day, one of Dad’s paintbrushes, some turps, a roll of masking tape, a bit of pink primer left over from the decorating and a half gallon of shiny blue enamel paint from the local hardware store…they were the days!

Not so today, my friends! The unsuspecting boat builder who toddles off to the local chandlery or superstore best be prepared for the very worst- not only will he (or she) face a huge financial onslaught on their wallet but a mind boggling array of hi-tech whiz wow balderdash that the (generally) uninformed shop assistant will proceed to throw in their general direction in the faint hope that you will give in under the stress and buy several litres of the latest polurethanicalslitheryaminomolecular goop that’s just come in. For example, you’ll be faced with trade names like ‘Interlux Interthane coating’. I mean, come on, it sounds like a new space invaders game! This is bloody paint! There are many others but I’m sure you get the gist of what I’m saying.

Another example of the kind of thing that drives me nuts is that you can expect to buy several litres of a iso-cyanate two pack marine polyurethane paint only to be cheerfully told its illegal to spray it unless you have a proper licenced premises to do so, drone drone!! I suppose they have to make up new names to go with the new paint company policies of charging up to $150 a litre for some of these new fangled paints! What the hell have they discovered that’s so expensive to put in this stuff? I was under the impression that paint was a few litres of linseed oil, turps, some drying agents and a few ounces of pigments for colour…can I really be so out of touch?

BACK TO BASICS

So, why do we paint wooden boats? Or any other boat for that matter? The first part of that question is easy. Boats look much smarter and better if they shine and gleam a bit… it’s only human nature after all. The second part to that question is: We want to protect it. Ok, from what? Well, wood rots if you don’t paint it, right? – wrong! Wood left to its own devices does not rot. Wood only rots as a result of its environment. There are multiple cases of how, plain untreated wood can last for centuries as long as it is in the correct environment. There are basically only a few elements that start wood rotting. Biological attack from spores, fungi, temperature, high humidity or total absorption, physical attack from marine borers and crustaceans that allow ingress to all the other elements aforementioned.

Don’t let’s forget that polluted waters can degrade timber to the point where it will rot….we’ll add chemical attack to that list too. So, in view of all these very compelling reasons we protect our boat by painting it to coat it fully against these assaults.

PREPARATION OF TIMBER

The actual preparation of timber can cover a range of differing requirements. If your boat is a new build you won’t have to go through many of the preparatory stages that an older boat may have to go through. With some forms of boatbuilding where a boat has been built by a different method such as strip planking or cold moulding, we paint the boat as if it were a fibreglass boat, due to the fact that either layers of fibreglass cover the timber or that the timber has been coated with epoxy that does not allow conventional paints to adhere to it properly. However, if we wish to protect bare timber then we use a different tack. Timber in its bare natural state has millions of thin hollow tubes running through it, constructed of cellulose in its natural form. We have to seal these tubes to prevent the ingress of water into them. Therefore we seal and coat the timber first of all.

The first thing we do is to clean and remove any loose and flaking or damaged paint plus any dirt that remains on the hull – sounds easy if you say it quick but it must be done! If necessary (and most times it is) degrease the hull using a proprietary paint degreaser after removing all dust preferably with a vacuum cleaner. Don’t forget it won’t be absolutely necessary to get all the hull back to bare wood just dry, clean, grease and dust free.

FILLING AND IMPERFECTIONS

Obviously, not many timber craft are perfect on the outside. There are many blemishes, cracks, imperfections and splits both large and small to deal with by filling them and sanding them flush before priming the boat. It’s a bit of a chore but time spent here will reward you with a boat that will certainly look better plus have a longer life. Some folks fill these holes and imperfections in timber with epoxy filler but it is not a good idea. Sometime later, for example, when the boat has to undergo a repair, it will be the very devil of a job to remove the epoxy from a fastening hole. It’s best to use some kind of proper timber filler that dries hard and fast but is never that hard that it can’t be removed later on. For example, painter’s glazing compound is a fairly hard setting soft paste that can be quickly applied then sanded and painted satisfactorily. Carvel boats usually have their seams filled fair with a special seam compound AFTER the boat has been primed. Once the boat has been filled and faired smooth and all dust removed we are ready to put some actual paint on. Remember, the difference between a professional paint job and an amateur is the PREPARATION!

WOOD PRESERVATIVE

There are two schools of thought about treating bare timber with wood preservatives. I’ve heard stories that primers and paints don’t adhere to many of them. In my case, I have never personally had that happen to me, so I am generally in favour of using them. Nevertheless, I am convinced that in many cases where the paint refuses to stick to timber is because the wood has not properly dried out after application. There is a definite percentage of humidity level that every timber has (and most of them differ slightly) where paint of any description simply won’t stick. It can be up to fifteen per cent in some timbers. Above all, ensure that your timber is dry enough to allow any paint or filler to adhere to it. Remember too that salt deposits on timber will readily contain water and keep it damp…. if your boat was in salty water wash it off in fresh before commencing painting. When and only when, your timber preservative is dry the next stage is:

PRIMER

The first coat of primer to go onto your hull is metallic grey primer. It is a good primer to use because it is made up of millions of microscopic flat metal (aluminium) plates that lie on top of each other giving water a very hard time to pass though it…Pink primer for example, has circular molecules of substances therefore allowing water to ingress a lot quicker…fact! Grey primers also contain certain oils and most have anti-mould agents contained within (biocides to you and I) We put two coats of grey primer above the waterline and three, no less, below it.

SOME OTHER OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PRIMERS

There are a whole world of paint primers out there and confusion about their qualities are very common. For basic dry timbers, the grey metallic primers are good as previously explained. Also many oil-based primers from well-known companies are also very good and will do the job perfectly well. Hi-build primers however must be approached with caution and I must say that I have never personally got on too well with them. Most of them contain Titanium Dioxide (that’s talcum powder to us lot) and even when it is fully cured can absorb copious amounts of moisture that can prevent really good paint adhesion. To avoid this only paint hi-build primers on good clear dry days and avoid excessive atmospheric humidity levels. Then, as soon as is possible apply the topcoats to seal them in. Note too, that hi-build primers are a soft type of paint and can suffer badly from scuffing over stony or shingly beaches and even when launching from boat trailers. When sanding these primers remember that huge clouds of white dust are released so be aware of where you sand and wear appropriate safety masks.

TOPCOATS

Once again, there are many types to choose from. Let’s get the two- packs out of the way first. TWO-PACK POLYURETHANES have to be applied over a two-pack epoxy undercoat first of all. They have a fantastic finish and that’s fine but you must be absolutely sure that the timber underneath is not going to move because the paint cures so hard that it can and will crack (strip plankers and cold moulded boats are your best bet here…apart of course from glass boats). The primary reason is that timber constructed boats move or ‘work’ as it is known. You may well get away with it if your timber boat has been glassed from new….not glassed over later as a preventative method to stop leaks. Rarely boats treated thus dry out properly and are still susceptible to movement as the timber inside the glass either rots because it was wet or it dries out too much and shrinks. Also boats that have been chined properly, that is, strips of timber glued in between the planks instead of being caulked, stand a reasonable chance of not moving.

Ok, what else? One pack or single pack polyurethane paints can be a good choice for a topcoat…they are almost as glossy and as durable as the two-packs but not quite! They are however, less expensive and far easier to apply than the two-packs… there are a multitude of them out there, so a bit of research is required plus your own personal choice…I’m not going to get involved in a slanging match about which ones are the best! However, remember most major well-known paint manufacturer’s products are usually ok! It’s your call!

So next on my list are marine enamels. Once again, it pays to remember that anything with MARINE in front of it is usually expensive…a good place to avoid in this quest is the large hardware chain stores that sport one or two paints in this category and I’ve fallen for it myself before now. It’s the Name we are looking for!

Even with decent quality marine enamels some of the whites have been known to yellow with age and the way round this is to buy the off-white colours such as cream or buff. My last choice in Marine enamels proper, is a relative newcomer…a water-based enamel. I personally have never used any but I have heard some good reports and there has to be a few advantages with them, quick cleanup for one and you can even drink the thinners!

ASSORTED CHOICES

There are a few types of paint systems that are different to the abovementioned and as usual they probably will draw a lot of flack from those types that love writing to the editor for some reason or the other. Mainly I suspect, because something isn’t quite conventional. Each of the following paints has their different uses and attributes.

HOUSE PAINT ENAMELS

Over the years the quality of house paint enamels has been increasing dramatically to the point where many yachties I know paint their boats with it. It’s a bit softer (and definitely cheaper) than most single pack polyurethanes and some colours, mostly the darker hues, tend to fade earlier than others. However, the fact remains that they can be an excellent choice especially if you own a small boat and don’t mind repainting it every couple of years….cheap to buy, easy to apply!

WATER BASED ACRYLICS

A few years ago you wouldn’t have dreamed of painting your boat with acrylic paint….it would have peeled off in great strips. That does not apply today however. My own boat, The NICKY J has been painted using Wattyl’s Acrylic semi-gloss “CANE” and it is really amazing. I used gloss for the hull and semi-gloss for the decks over white epoxy primer single pack and it has been really good. Never once has it even looked like delaminating. I paint the boat once a year with a roller and it takes less than a day…and she’s forty two feet long! It is yet another choice!

Well there’s your main paint choices but I urge you to remember one thing…preparation is King… it will save you plenty of money in the long run, for sure.

HOW TO APPLY YOUR PAINT

There are of course, three main methods of applying your paints; Spraying, brushing and rollering. There’s another that many people use, a combination of the last two, rolling and tipping, we’ll deal with that one later.

Let’s take a look at spraying. There are several pre-requisites for a decent spray job. These usually are a decent workshop complete with suction fans and half decent ventilation using good spray gear (cheapo underpowered stuff just doesn’t cut the mustard) and most importantly, adequate and proper safety gear. There are always exceptions to the rule and there’s one chap who works in Edge’s boatyard outside in the weather and he does a fantastic job…imagine how much better he might be if he worked indoors!! You will also have to watch the weather, high humidity is not good and also where the overspray goes…not over anyone’s car as is so often the case! A good excess of paint is lost and wasted in the process. If you have a driving need for you boat to look like your car then sprayings for you! Oh yeah, it quick(ish) too!

Brushing by hand can yield incredible results if you are patient and also know what you are doing. I’ve seen boats that at first glance look like they have been sprayed only to find out that they were hand painted by brush…….Dust free atmosphere and bloody good brushes (I mean expensive) are an absolute must here.

Last of all, rollering especially the ‘roll and tip’ method. This requires two people working together as a team. One rolls the paint on thinly and the other follows closely with a decent brush and ‘tips’ out the bubbles left behind by the roller – unbelievably good finishes can be obtained by this method.

A word of warning, no matter which method you use. Don’t be tempted to retouch runs or sags in the paint or you will ruin the finish….wait until the paint has fully dried then deal with it! It’s tempting but paint always seems to gel quicker than you would think!

A SUMMARY

There are many facets to the successful painting of a boat. We can’t be good at all of them and you have to choose the method most suited to you own particular capabilities. A lot depends on the facilities that you have available at your disposal. Some people have the garden to work in others may have huge sheds and even access to a warehouse! I will say that a few basic rules apply to painting even the smallest boat. Often, too much, too clever or too sophisticated is often detrimental to what you are trying to achieve.

I have seen boats that cost twenty grand to paint and they were just really average…why? Wrong choice of painter, that’s why. If you are going to choose a painter it’s not a crime to ask him to show you some examples of his work. If he’s any good there should be plenty…there are plenty of chancers and cowboys about, rest assured. All boats, every single one of them will need retouching or even a repaint within years. Just how long you get for your money is the trick. Unless you put your freshly painted boat in a museum or garage and lock it away you can bet that from day one, it will collect nicks, dings, scratches and scars, it’s inevitable. Beware the painter who tells you, ‘yes it will be ten grand, but it’ll outlast you and me’. The need for repainting is directly proportional to how badly the boat is treated over the years. The only way of keeping your boat pristine and perfect is never to actually put it in that dirty old water once it’s done! Be realistic about your own abilities and your expectations. Simple can be better in many cases.

A SIMPLE FORMULA FOR CALCULATING HOW MUCH PAINT YOU NEED (FOR ONE COAT)

This is interesting if not exactly exact! But it gets very close indeed. This is applicable to brushing and rolling only NOT spraying. There’s a different formula for that and I don’t know it!

THE FORMULA

ONE COAT = The boat’s length overall x the beam x 0.85

Divided by square feet covered per litre listed on the paint can instructions.

If you can’t work it out the paint manufacturer will tell you if you ring the company hotline.

Over the years, wooden boats have survived the elements in spite of very crude and primitive forms of paint. Many early vessels were simply daubed in pitch, bitumen, turps and beeswax. An early Thames barge had survived for over a hundred years in perfect condition as she was originally used as a bitumen tanker!! The dark brown shiny finish was the most perfect example of preserved wood that I have ever seen. One of the most interesting boats I ever saw was painted with fence paint…the owner reckoned he’d only ever painted it once in thirty years! Another old boat builder I knew once told me the secret of painting a wooden boat was to paint it with as many coats of paint that you could afford!